記者 Blizer
BBC朝鮮平壤12月22日電——咱們執政鮮的6天行程無比緊湊。
從北京朝鮮年夜使館拿到簽證後，咱們於12月16日（周三）準時登上瞭從北京騰飛的朝航商務機252次航班。
那是一架俄制舊式Tupolev204-300飛機。90分鐘的安穩航行，與之相伴的是愛國樂曲和一部表示朝鮮人平易近勇敢奮鬥的片子，另有穿戴白色夾克、戴著紅色手套的美丽空姐。
飛歸北京已是12月22日，周二。這比咱們原定的每日天期要晚一天，由於嚴峻的年夜霧（影響瞭既定航班）。返程搭乘搭座的是中國國航122次航班，波音737客機。空姐們沒有戴空手套。
平壤機場很小，天天隻有2-3個飛去少數目標地的航班，是以並不忙碌。
CNN駐北京攝影記者米格爾.卡斯特羅和我此行的目標是報道美國新墨西哥州州長理查森的訪朝之行。理查森是美國前駐結合國特使，和朝鮮打交道履歷豐碩。紐約時報駐北京記者莎朗.拉法蘭麗葉是理查森約請的另一位得到朝方許可隨行的媒體記者。
和理查森偕行的另有他的高等參謀，托尼.納姆昆，自1990年起，這哥們曾經往過朝鮮不下40歸，他對朝鮮、韓國、中國和japan(日本)洞若觀火。此外，隨行的另有他的州長辦公室副主任吉爾伯特.各拉戈斯，新墨西哥州周遭的狀況成長委員會 蓋.迪令漢姆，州差人總長莫.阿特艾格。
下飛機時，朝鮮人收瞭咱們的護照，還給咱們的是機票、手機。當然，在返程飛歸北京前，他們把（進境時的隨身）物品都還給瞭咱們。
我想，不帶任何偏見地說，此行讓咱們年夜開眼界，感覺像在坐過山車——從朝鮮半島瀕臨戰役的發急到朝方回頭是岸，甚至接收瞭一些理查森的提議。
興許理查森此行勝利勸撫瞭東道主，（所接觸的）包含首席核談代理、第一副相金吉官，交際部新任副部永日永浩，賣力寢兵和非軍事區事件的軍事主座潘雲蘇將軍，國傢副 金永達。
咱們抵達平壤時，南北兩邊已處戰役邊沿。這是自1953年朝鮮戰役寢兵以來最嚴峻的危機。
別忘瞭，這裡勢如危卵，險些是個炸藥桶。任何過錯都可能招致周全戰役，那將禍及兩邊恆河沙數的甲士和布衣。朝鮮和韓國共無數百萬人在臨近非軍事區餬口、棲身。
朝鮮在非軍事區己方一側陳兵百萬壁壘森嚴，韓方兵力也大抵相稱，邊疆地域另有近30000名美軍和數千門重炮和導彈發射架，兩邊虎視眈眈常備不懈。全世界都確信朝鮮正在設置裝備擺設一個核武器工場。
我置信，現在這是地球上最傷害的處所。
這是我第一次前去朝鮮。絕管我已經往過韓國、非軍事區和中國。當理查森給我打復電話問我又沒愛好跟他一路往朝鮮，我就地就相稱痛快地允許瞭。 20年前他仍是國會議員時我就熟悉他瞭——比他當駐結合國年夜使和克林頓當局動力部永劫還要早。
（插手走訪團時）我有點不安，擔憂本身還能不克不及歸得來。我相稱擔憂一旦戰役迸發，他們會關閉機場，那樣我可就陷執政鮮瞭。我甚至開端斟酌須要情形下本身執政鮮和中國邊疆線驅車疾走的排場，這可行嗎？
每次從朝鮮電視或許電臺入耳到軍樂，我城市想，這個政權是否曾經預備讓國傢歡迎戰役?
已往的數年中，我已經多次報道戰役和其餘求助緊急狀態，去去是從事先直到收場，全周期式的。每次起程前，我城市由於可能產生最壞的情形有些緊張。我的腎上腺素會因（意識到本身）身處龐大事務而異樣活潑，並不只僅是由於事業義務，也因擔憂此行後來，本身可否再有如許的機遇。
對這一事務的報道讓我歸憶起上世紀70、80年月，我早年在中東的事業。沒有internet、沒有變動位置德律風、沒有黑莓手機。
我在平壤的賓館有一部“立場倔強的”德律風，可以打到美國，每分鐘10美元（不接收信譽卡、隻接收現金，並且必需是新鈔），但不克不及接受從美國打來的德律風。
他們不答應咱們運用衛星直播，但咱們拍瞭數百張照片和約莫8個小不時長的視頻，眼下正在接收檢討。預備在CNN及其網站完善呈現。
我在平壤的賓館竟然能望到CNN—— Zain Verjee, 安加利.勞和理查德探秘（一些掌管人及其欄目名），從沒感覺這麼好——但沒有報紙。
另有，6天的孤島式餬口——，沒有電子郵件，沒有復電。對我來說，這簡直是個改變。但我有點接收甚至喜歡這種餬口。直到歸到北京，才發明有983封郵件在等著我。
賓館和美食很棒，尤其是假如你喜歡朝鮮菜的話。我對混搭瞭雞蛋和牛排的早餐、雞湯、白米飯和蒸蔬菜年夜感興味。晚饭常常是朝鮮烤雞或魚。
有朝方官員全部旅程陪伴——我是指任何時辰。他們英語流暢，很智慧，有禮貌，甚至，很好。 執政鮮期間，我從沒感覺遭到要挾。咱們懂得，那是他們的事業。別忘瞭，這是在共·產￥ 軌制下。
咱們所到之處的步履遭到嚴酷限定：哪些可以錄，哪些人可以問。他們但願鋪示最好的一壁，不許咱們拍攝欠好的處所。咱們保持要求接觸更多，有時辰他們也會做出妥協。紐約時報記者莎朗的要求最多，但這些盡力都被謝絕而化為泡影。
終極，咱們仍是執政鮮首都望到瞭良多，甚至得以入進市區一個宏大的蘋果和其餘果園，那裡無數千名農夫在勞動，果園司理稱，園子裡有220萬棵果樹。這個數字聽起來有點誇張但不管咋樣，那裡的所有給咱們留下瞭深入印象。
一旦分開平壤，你就很丟臉到公路上有car 。人們都在路邊步行，也有些騎自行車。坐在整條公路上獨一的一輛car 上，有點怪嚇人的。這是個很是貧困的國傢。
正擔憂這裡會產生戰役時，咱們被帶到一傢有2000名女工在勤勉事業的紡織廠。咱們搭乘地鐵，從繁華站到榮耀站。咱們往購物——仍是隻能運用現金、新美鈔，他們不喜歡舊的、皺巴巴的鈔票。
咱們在 年夜學和衣著鮮明的學生共度瞭一下戰書，之後往瞭一所外語高中。那些16歲擺佈的孩子在進修隧道的美國俚語。我聽到一個學生說：“真酷！”他指的並不是天色。咱們在國傢藏書樓望到瞭電腦，很面子但手藝水準低下。
在國傢藏書樓有一個宏大的音樂教室。人們在那裡可以聽些年夜音樂傢的CD。我在那時，他們為我播放瞭肯尼羅傑的歌。很顯然他在這裡也年夜受迎接。
他們還帶咱們參觀。望瞭凱旋門（望起來簡直比巴黎的阿誰要年夜） ；宏大的石塔（顯然比華盛頓留念碑要高）；另有他們的有表裡門的體育館、滑冰場等體育舉措措施。
一全國午，我望到朝鮮女子冰球隊在慢跑，就跟下來跑瞭一小段。她們望到我隨著跑就開端年夜笑。梗概是在想，這個拿著小型便攜相機的本國人是不是瘋子。
之後，當朝鮮公佈將對韓國的實彈軍演入行抨擊時，我想到瞭這些密斯和哪些在平壤見到的年青人。他們望下來那麼脆肉，如夠戰役迸發，我很是擔憂他們的命運。我並不羞於講，我為他們和他們的韓國同胞而覺得傷感。
和他的兒子，“敬愛的首腦” 的巨幅畫像處處可見。我沒有望到據稱是下一代引導人金正恩的畫像。
朝鮮首都的公路和地道裡都沒有路燈。
朝鮮的電力供給是個年夜問題。外面很寒，室內急需熱氣。教室裡的學生穿戴厚厚的年夜衣。屋裡也不敷亮。
絕管咱們和理查森都再三要求，但仍未被答應前去延邊核舉措措施和非軍事區。朝鮮人稱這是精心敏感期，他們說假如我在其餘情形上去訪，或者可以。
趁便說一句，2012年對朝鮮相稱主要。那是 出生100周年。朝鮮人正在籌辦隆重儀式。假如他們約請我重返，我將前去。興許更早，當然我不但願是為瞭報道戰役。
呃，我是否提到過，我為那些孩子們而擔憂？
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原文如下：
Blitzer in North Korea: Life in a tinderboxSee
Pyongyang, North Korea (CNN) — We certainly packed a lot into six days here.
After receiving our visas at the North Korean Embassy in Beijing, we arrived on Thursday, December 16, on a regularly scheduled North Korean commercial flight from Beijing on Air Koryo flight 252.
It was a newish Russian-made Tupolev 204-300 aircraft and a very smooth 90-minute flight accompanied with patriotic music and a video showing the heroic struggle of the North Korean people. The attractive flight attendants wore red suit jackets and white gloves.
We flew back to Beijing on Tuesday, December 22, a day after our original plan because of an incredibly thick fog. The flight back was on Air China flight 122, a Boeing 737. The flight attendants did not wear white gloves.
Pyongyang airport is very small. It has only two or three flights a day to only a handful of destinations. This is not a very busy airport.
CNN Beijing-based photographer Miguel Castro and I were covering the visit here of New Mexico Gov. Bill Richardson, a former U.S. ambassador to the United Nations experienced in Korean diplomacy. Sharon LaFraniere, a Beijing-based correspondent for The New York Times, was the only other journalist invited by Richardson and approved by North Korea to cover this trip.
Richardson was joined by his senior adviser, Tony Namkung, who’’s been to North Korea 40 times going back to 1990. He is very impressive with a wealth of knowledge about both Koreas, China and Japan. Also joining Richardson was Gilbert Gallegos, his deputy chief of staff; Gay Dillingham, chair of the New Mexico Environmental Improvement Board; and State Police officer Mo Arteaga.
The North Koreans took our passports, return flight tickets and cell phones upon arrival at the airport. They returned everything when we were about to board our flight back to Beijing.
I think it’’s fair to say we all had an eye-opening experience. It was a roller coaster of emotions — ranging from real fear of war on the Korean Peninsula to relief that the North had stepped back from the brink and even accepted some of Richardson’’s proposals.
Maybe Richardson had played a positive role in calming down his hosts, including the chief nuclear negotiator, First Vice Foreign Minister Kim Kye Gwan; the new Vice Minister for Foreign Affairs, Ri Yong Ho; the military officer in charge of the armistice and Demilitarized Zone, Major Gen. Pak Rim Su; and the country’’s Vice President, Kim Yong Dae.
Let’’s not forget what’’s at stake here. This is a tinderbox.
—- CNN’’s Wolf Blitzer
We arrived convinced the Korean Peninsula was on the verge of a war, the worst crisis since the 1953 armistice that ended the Korean War.
Let’’s not forget what’’s at stake here. This is a tinderbox. One miscalculation can quickly lead to all-out war and hundreds of thousands of military and civilian casualties on both sides. Millions of North and South Koreans live very close to the DMZ.
The North also has a million heavily armed troops on their side of the DMZ; the South nearly has many. There are also nearly 30,000 U.S. troops along the frontier with thousands of artillery pieces and missile launchers facing each other. The North is widely believed to be building a nuclear arsenal.
I believe this is the most dangerous spot on Earth right now.
This was my first visit to North Korea, though I had been to South Korea, the DMZ and China. When Richardson called me and asked me if I wanted to go with him, I immediately accepted and am glad I did. I have known him for 20 years going back to his days in Congress — long before he became U.N. ambassador and energy secretary during the Clinton administration.
I was apprehensive going in, worried about whether I would actually get out. I was concerned that they would shut the airport if war erupted, and I would be stuck inside North Korea. I even began wondering about the prospects of driving across the North Korea-China border if necessary. Was that even doable?
Every time I heard some martial music on North Korean television and radio, I wondered whether the regime was preparing the country for war.
I’’ve covered wars and other dangerous situations over the years and usually go through a before, during and after cycle — nervous before I leave about all the worst case scenarios; not all that worried while on assignment because my adrenaline is pumping and I’’m in the midst of a big story; but wondering after the trip whether I should do it again.
Covering this story brought back memories of my early overseas assignments in the Middle East in the ’’70s and ’’80s: no 互聯網, no cell phone, no Blackberry.
I had a hard-line phone in my Pyongyang hotel room and could make outgoing calls to the United States at about $10 a minute. (No credit cards accepted; only cash and only crisp bills.) I could not receive incoming calls from the United States.
They would not let us broadcast live via satellite but we took hundreds of still pictures and shot about eight hours of video which we are now going through. Get ready to see the best on CNN and cnn.com.
I did get CNN International in my hotel room — Zain Verjee, Anjali Rao and Richard Quest never looked better — but no newspapers.
Still, six days isolated without e-mail or a cell phone; it was quite a transition for me, but I sort of got used to it and even liked it. I had 983 e-mails waiting for me when I eventually got back to Beijing.
We had North Korean officials with us all the time — and I mean all the time.
—- CNN’’s Wolf Blitzer
RELATED TOPICS
Wolf Blitzer
North Korea
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The hotel and elite restaurant food was very good, especially if you like Korean food. I stuck with scrambled eggs and toast for breakfast; chicken soup and white rice and steamed veggies for lunch; and usually some grilled Korean chicken or fish for dinner.
We had North Korean officials with us all the time — and I mean all the time. They spoke English well and were very intelligent, polite and even nice. I never felt threatened. They had a job to do, and we understood. Let’’s not forget this is a communist, totalitarian regime.
We were restricted as to where we could go, what we could film and to whom we could talk. They want to showcase the best and keep us way from the worst. We constantly pressed for more access and they sometimes relented. Sharon from The New York Times was especially persistent and her efforts occasionally paid off.
Still, we saw a lot of the North Korean capital and even managed to get into the countryside to see a huge apple and fruit-tree orchard where thousands of farmers work what the orchard director said were some 2.2 million trees. That number seemed exaggerated but whatever it was, it was impressive.
Once you get outside Pyongyang, you see very few cars on the roads. People are walking along the sides of the roads; some are riding bikes. It’’s eerie being in the only 汽車on the road. This is a very poor country.
Even as we feared there could be a war, we were taken to a silk thread factory where 2,000 women work diligently. We rode the jam-packed subway system from Prosperity Station to Glory Station. We went shopping — again cash only and only crisp U.S. dollar bills. They really don’’t like the old, wrinkled bills.
We spent one afternoon with well-dressed students at Kim Il Sung University and later at a foreign language high school where very bright 16-year-olds were learning English complete with American slang. I heard one student say: "That’’s very cool." He wasn’’t referring to the weather. We saw the computers at their national library. They were decent but not state of the art.
There’’s a huge music room at the library where people can simply listen to CDs of great artists. When I was there, they played a Kenny Rogers song for me. He apparently is very popular here.
They also took us sightseeing. We saw their Arc de Triumphe (supposedly bigger than the one in Paris); their huge stone tower (apparently taller than the Washington Monument); and their sports complex complete with indoor and outdoor stadiums and ice skating rink.
I saw the North Korean girls’’ ice hockey team jogging one afternoon and briefly caught up with them. They laughed as I ran with them — probably thinking who is this crazy foreign person carrying a little hand-held camera.
Later, when it looked like the North Koreans would retaliate for South Korea’’s live-fire military exercise, I thought of these girls and all the young people I had seen in North Korea. They seemed so vulnerable, and I worried about their fate if there were a war. I’’m not embarrassed to say I got sentimental and emotional worrying about them and their counterparts in South Korea.
Huge pictures of the late Great Leader, Kim Il Sung, and his son, the Dear Leader, Kim Jong Il, were all over the place. I didn’’t see pictures of the next generation’’s expected leader, Kim Jong Un.
Electricity is a huge problem in North Korea. It was bitter cold outside. Indoor heat is at a premium. The students were in the classrooms wearing their warm overcoats. The rooms were not well-lit.
There were no lights in the tunnels on the roads outside the North Korean capital.
Outsiders have been predicting its demise for 60 years, but I didn’’t get the impression this country was on the verge of crumbling.
We were not taken to the Yongbyon nuclear facility or their side of the DMZ even though we and Richardson repeatedly asked. The North Koreans pointed out this was an especially tense time. They said I could come back on another occasion and perhaps visit these places.
By the way, 2012 is going to be a huge year for North Korea. That’’s the 100th anniversary of the birth of Kim Il Sung. The North Koreans are preparing major events. Since they invited me back, I might go back then; maybe even sooner though I hope it won’’t be to cover a war.
Did I mention that I’’m worried about the children?
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